ABOVE CODE IS A WAY OF ENSURING THAT THE HOMEOWNER HAS A SAFE, HIGH-QUALITY, TROUBLE FREE, LONG-LIVED ELECTRICAL INSTALLATION.
THE ABOVE CODE KITCHEN
The NEC method is good, but I don’t think it adequately reflects the trend of today’s homeowners, who are using more heavy wattage appliances. To see this in action, all one has to do is attend a bridal shower and not all the kitchen appliances. And as most of us tend to forget, the NEC requires minimum code and we are allowed to exceed it. Here is my version for the kitchen.
First, unload the countertop appliance circuits. Take the two 20-amps, code-mandated circuits and isolate them to the countertop. Next, bring in an additional circuit for the common wall receptacles. Thus, the kitchen will have a total of three 20-amp receptacle circuits: two GFCI circuits for the countertop (I use panel-mounted GFCIs because of their longer life expectancy) and one non-GFCI circuit for the common wall receptacles. The refrigerator can be tied into the 20-amp wall receptacles or can have its own 20-amp circuit. Along the backsplash of the countertop, place a receptacle on each stud or every other stud. With 16-in.-on-center stud spacing, this places a receptacle every 16 in. to 32 in. If the wall has 24-in.-on-center studs, place a receptacle on each stud.
If you don’t want the stud wall layout to dictate where the receptacle will be placed along the countertop, you can make your own design. To do this, put horizontal nailers in between the studs along the countertop. The height of the common kitchen counter is approximately 40 in. at the backsplash. Installing the nailer bottom at 42 in. will place the receptacle just above the backsplash. In this situation, I prefer to install the receptacles horizontally, which makes a more pleasing line with the horizontal counter. You can now plan the distance between the receptacles to match your needs.
For lighting, place a wall-mounted switch at each entrance to the dining/kitchen area. If three-way switching is needed (for example, if the kitchen has more than one entrance), these switches can be fed from a 14-gauge, 15-amp light-duty lighting circuit (the circuit that feeds the smoke detectors). In addition to overhead lighting, consider adding a light at the sink and installing under-counter lighting.
THE ABOVE CODE BATHROOM
I much prefer a common-sense version of the NEC, keeping the receptacle unto itself. Allowing more loads on a circuit that, as the years go by, takes on more and more high-wattage loads, such as hair curlers and hair dryers, is not a wise decision. I recommend isolating the bath receptacle from all other bathe loads. In addition, I also recommend that when there’s more than one receptacle, each one should be wired on its own circuit. This may seen like expensive overkill at first, but it isn’t. It is quite common to have two people (both spouses or two teenagers) working on their hair at the same time. Two heavy-amperage hair dryers cannot work simultaneously without their own circuits.
To wire an Above Code bathroom, start by bringing in two power cables: one for the receptacle and one for the lights, fan, and so on. If you want a heavy-duty heater, bring in a third. Bring the power cable for the lights into the light switch outlet box by the door. Typically this is a double box-one switch for the fan and another for the overhead lights. The lights by the mirror, if any, are powered by a switch on the wall adjacent to the sink (run a jumper over to it from the door switch box).
The power cable for the bath receptacle is a home run from the service panel directly to the receptacle outlet box adjacent to the sink. Bring in an additional home run for each receptacle. A whirlpool tub, if present, requires its own GFCI-protected circuit starting from a GFCI breaker and terminating at a hard-wired splice at the tub’s motor. Don’t forget that the tub must be installed so that the motor can be removed, if needed.
Hallways and stairs
Code requires one receptacle if the hallway is longer than 10 ft. Stairs with six steps or more require switched lighting at each end and at a landing that opens to a door. Code doesn’t require receptacles on stairs, but I think it’s a good idea to install an extra receptacle either at the top, middle, or bottom of the staircase and at one of the landings. This will give you a place to plug in a vacuum cleaner, nightlight, or Christmas lights for the railing.
Bedrooms
Bedrooms require switched lighting via either an overhead light or a switched receptacle. Always go with overhead lighting; otherwise, you will be stuck with a table lamp on that end table at that one spot forever. Once you mark the light outlet box, determine the location of the bed, dressers, end tables, and any other specific piece of furniture. If you think you’re an average person and don’t need anything other than the few outlets required by code, the wiring is fairly straightforward. But I’ve never met an average person. I advise my customers to consider everything that they may want in the room and to wire it accordingly. For example, will the room house a computer or stereo system? Also consider track lighting above the bed, overhead lighting, and paddle fans.
Closet Lights
You don’t have to install closet lights, but if you do, the rules are quite simple. First, always use an enclosed bulb. Second, install the light immediately above the top of the closet door trim. This is about as far away from anything flammable as you can get. Keep all light fixtures a minimum of 12 in. away from all flammables even though code allows 6 in. in some situations. Never install a hanging fixture in a closet.
Dining Room
The dining room needs switched lighting at each entrance. The standard rule for placing receptacles applies here. All receptacles within the dining room, kitchen, and pantry cannot be shared by circuits in any other rooms. For example, if a bedroom shares a wall with the dining room, it cannot tap off one of the dining room’ receptacles.
Living Room
The living room needs switched lighting, preferably at each entrance. The lighting can be overhead or a switched receptacle, but overhead is always preferred. In addition to the standard receptacle placement, it’s a good idea to place receptacles on both sides of each window and corner, as well as on both sides of the fireplace. Be sure to place extra receptacles for the stereo, VCR, television, and any other electronic gear that may be used in the room. It’s a good idea to put the electronic gear on its own 20-amp circuit.
Outlets
The rule here is that more is better. It has been my experience that you need a receptacle outlet within 2 ft. of each room corner (one on each corner wall, except where there is a door), and if the room is large enough, another one in the middle. If you have windows and there is no receptacle close to either side, consider installing an extra outlet adjacent to one or both side of the window. Having an outlet in each corner gives you the flexibility of putting furniture almost anywhere you want. The windowsills can now accommodate electric candles, Christmas stars, and other animated toys you may want to display during the holidays.
Install a receptacle quad on each side of the bed adjacent to the end tables for all your creature comforts: clock, radio, TV, transformer for the laptop computer, complete stereo system, portable CD player, ion generator, sleep machine, window air conditioner, half fridge, fan, VCR, DVD player and so on. You’ll never run out of things to plug in-only receptacles to plug into.
Lights
If you’re fairly certain that the bed won’t be moved, I recommend installing a switch on each side of the bed to control the overhead or wall (sconces) lighting-that’s four-way switching arrangement. This way, you can dim the lights to whatever mood seems appropriate without leaving the bed. If you have lights below an overhead fan, they can be controlled by remote.
Reading in bed is sometimes a point of contention between spouses. To be able to read at night and not send your significant other out of the room (or worse, have to endure constant suggestions to turn out the light), consider installing track lighting on the wall above the bed and wired or recessed lighting with dimmers in the ceiling. With both installed, the light can be concentrated on just one side of the bed.
Receptacles
Instead of worrying about color and style, homeowners and electricians should worry more about quality.
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