Home automation has been growing steadily in the building industry since its inception during the 1970s. In the past, low quality cable and poor connections resulted in noise and interference on communication lines. Today, structured wiring system is one that uses a wider bandwidth, allowing more information to pass through the wire. Structured wiring, such as category 5 (CAT 5) wiring, is critical for phone, fax, and high speed digital computer transmission. It is being installed in many new homes; and new buzzwords like power line carrier controls, design protocols, home networking, and smart house are rapidly entering our vocabulary. Originally, individual appliances were automated for the sake of cutting down on energy use, creating built in security and providing simple convenience. Today’s systems go much further integrating all functions in a house and controlling them directly and remotely. All the electricity, heating, cooling, plumbing, lighting, and even communications, computer, security, and audio video equipment are united by a single control system. Appliances merge with this system an can monitor themselves to schedule repairs and maintenance or simply let you know that you are short on milk and eggs. Through various Internet connections they will soon be able to download their own software upgrades or purchase the milk and eggs for you. Such systems may be controlled from a master console located in you home, programmed and run by your personal computer, or even controlled remotely from an outside location. Currently emerging systems even act as a residential gateway, or central entry point, through which outside data and services may enter your home and be distributed.

Smart Home Basics
Power line carrier control
Depending on the type, home automation systems may be hardwired using special structured cable or conventional residential cable. Alternatively, they may be remotely controlled by radio frequency signals. Running wires to connect light switches, thermostats, home theaters, and other devices to a microprocessor is extremely difficult to do in an existing home and is usually reserved for new construction. Surface wiring is an alternative, if you are determined to have a hardwired system. Some homeowners may choose this method because hardwired systems are extremely reliable. However, a hardwired home automation system under retrofit conditions will cost thousands of dollars an amount that will double for in wall wiring. It is simpler and more cost effective to install a system that transmits commands to your electronic devices through existing house wiring and/or radio waves.

A power line carrier (PLC) is any automation controller that permits one way command signals to be transmitted over a standard electrical system without needing to run additional wires. Coded digital pulses sent over wire control designated electrical circuits. The transmitter can be a simple wall mounted keypad or a key chain remote. With a remote wireless transmitter, you can sit in you favorite armchair, lounge out in you yard, or even pull into your driveway and still be able to turn any device in the house on or off. If you want to turn off your upstairs lights while you’re watching television downstairs, you can do it with a single push of a button. You can mount PLC transmitters and receivers in a wall like a standard receptacle or switch, or plug them into a standard electrical outlet. Use a master control console to operate everything from one location. Today, you can control virtually any electrical device using keypads, touch panels, handheld remotes, or even your voice.

Timer Control
In the past, one mechanical timer could control only one device. Today, standard home automation timer controls can independently or in combination perform multiple tasks throughout your house. Advanced timer controls operate directly or remotely and can even turn security switching on and off randomly. If power is interrupted, they have a battery backup.

Computer Control
Current automation standards, or protocols, provide for interaction between computers and home automation devices. Such systems allow the homeowner to download automation schedules into their personal computers. Currently, you can use available software to control devices at specific times and locations with the simple click of a mouse. You can even dial up your computer by telephone and control any device in you house. Call home from the office, and your whirlpool can be running, the outside security lights turned on, and your food cooked by the time you get home.

Wireless Remote Control
Remote control devices rely on radio frequency transmissions to operate lights and appliances from a remote location within a limited distance of your home, such as from you yard, driveway, or garage. As mentioned earlier, these controls take the form of key chains, wall switches, or handheld remotes like the one you use to operate your television set. The transceiver, whether mounted on the wall or plugged into a receptacle, receives and transmits radio signals through your existing house wiring to control a specified appliance, fixture, or other device.

Home Networking
Home networking is entering the marketplace fast on the heels of home automation. Virtually every appliance used in the home today is available with some type of independently operated electronic processor. Home networking is a system of connecting circuitry to share information electronically. Such networking enables all of your appliances to work together under one brain or control system. There are three basic types of networks: computer, entertainment, and control. A computer network links personal computers (PCs) and peripheral devices, such as printers, scanners, and fax machines. An entertainment network connects equipment like TVs, VCRs, stereos, and DVD players. A control network (the brains of the system) joins lighting, switching, security, sprinkler, heating, ventilating, air conditioning, plumbing, and other mechanical and electronic equipment to one command center.

Surge Control
Some home automation systems use power lines to transmit their signals. Unfortunately, many appliances, like TVs and computer printers, can create noise on a wiring network, reducing the clarity of signals. When an automation system unintentionally turns itself on and off or occasionally doesn’t work at all, this may be the reason. If you suspect it is, unplug the appliance to see whether the system will then work properly. If an appliance is causing a problem, you must plug it into a high-end surge suppressor to filter out the noise. This type of suppressor is similar to the multiple outlet adapter that you plug your computer into to protect it from power surges but it must be premium quality and labeled “filter” on the box.

High powered surges (lightning pulses) must be stopped before they enter the house wiring not after. You cannot depend solely upon the multiple outlet suppressor to protect your system. Electronic devices are extremely sensitive, and home automation products are no exception. Systems can turn on and off by themselves if a surge, or spike, from a thunderstorm or other cause, travels down the power line. A power reduction, or brownout, made by a utility company can also affect electronic devices. However, major surges can be minimized by installing a special type of surge arrester (suppressor) in the main service panel. The unit takes the space of a standard circuit breaker. You can simply protect your home automation control circuit through the surge protection device. One device will protect an entire residential electrical system.

Data Transmission Standards
Design Protocols
Every home automation system consists of transmitters, receivers, and the signals transmitted between them. As one might think, any company can develop its own system of design standards, or protocols, and use them to receive and send signals along the wiring in your home to control their own automation products. The best known and most popular protocols are X-10, CEBus, and Lon Works.

X-10
X-10 technology controls circuits by sending signals from one point to another, eliminating the need to run wires. This makes X-10 especially suitable for existing homes. Not having to cut drywall and fish wires saves on labor and materials, reducing the installation cost of a complete home automation system.
In an X-10 system, signals are transmitted by modulating radio frequency bursts of 120 kilo-hertz (kHz) power. These RF bursts consist of a start code and a house code, along with function and unit codes. These are superimposed over the voltage on your house wiring. Simply put, a burst of power is equivalent to a digital one (1), and a lack of a burst is equivalent to a digital zero (0). A combination of ones and zeros (binary system) represents a particular command. X-10 systems provide 32 codes, known as address groups. There are 16 house codes and 16 unit codes that, in combination, provide up to 256 unique addresses to assign to individual devices. Each receiver in the system will respond to only one of up to six commands given for a set address: ON, OFF, DIM, BRIGHT, ALL LIGHTS ON, or ALL LIGHTS OFF. For example, an appliance module may receive a signal to turn on, while a wall switch is commanded to dim a light, and a wall receptacle is directed to cut power to whatever device is plugged into it. Modules are available for light switches and dimmers, occupancy sensors, timers, etc. Place a master controller by your bedside or armchair. For ultimate control, your computer can take change.

CEBus
Consumer Electronic Bus (CEBus) is a communications protocol for home automation networks developed by the Electronics Industry Association (EIA) and the Consumer Electronics Manufacturers Association (CEMA). CEBus signals can be transmitted across AC power lines, low voltage wires, category 5 cable, coaxial cable, radio and infrared frequencies, and fiber optics. CEBus standards were designed to augment the remote control and monitoring of mechanical, electrical, home entertainment, security, and other systems. CEBus devices communicate using an electronic command language, called Common Application Language (CAL), which includes device specific commands like fast forward, rewind, volume up, temperature down, etc. This differs from the X-10 system in that it uses variable signals to change the intensity of each radio frequency burst. The length of the burst determine whether the digital number created is a one or a zero. CEBus standards also make communications more reliable because they require that a system be able to recover form signaling errors.

Lon Works
Lon Works is a leading standard for home networking that provides a vehicle for communication between control products and systems. The protocol proposes design guidelines for Lon Work’s compatible products and systems and certifies and promotes them. The latest Lon Works based standard, known as EIA 709, was developed by CEMA. It is now a widely supported industry standard, considered by some to be the best choice for automating lighting, heating, ventilation, air-conditioning, and other systems because of its compatibility with other formats. In addition to home automation, its system are used commercially in transportation, energy management in major buildings, and industrial equipment control.

Smart House
Smart House is a limited partnership formed by the National Association of Home Builders (NAHB) that invites competing home automation manufacturers to develop products and applications for Smart House technology to be used for control of security, utility, home entertainment, lighting, and other residential systems. The intention is to unify the wiring of such systems to simplify installation and reduce costs.

Smart House wiring consists of branch cabling for conventional power and digital data transmission; applications cable to transmit digital data and direct current (DC) voltage to operate control sensors; and communications cable for video and telecommunications wiring. These cables control appliances, monitor their status, and transmit information. The drawback to the Smart House system is that it is privately owned and requires custom wiring and service.

Regardless of which data transmission standard you use X-10, CEBus, Lon Works, or Smart House remember that power line communications are seldom enough. To control the multitude of electronic devise and equipment commonly found in today’s homes, other types of communication methods must also be supported, including wireless systems like infrared (IR) and radio frequency (RF) transmission.

Methods of Signal Transmission

Transmission Standard	Transmission Method	Relative Cost
X-10	Power line	Low
CEBus	Power line, twisted pair, coaxial cable, radio frequency, infrared, fiber optics	Low to moderate
Lon Works	Power line, twisted pair, radio frequency, additional types supported by third party transceivers	Low to moderate
Smart House	Custom wiring only	Moderate to high

Uses for Home Automation Lighting Systems and Appliances
Uses for home automation are as varied as the users. You may, for example, wish to operate outside house lights using a key chain remote. This comes in handy when you need to carry in groceries after dark or fumble with keys to unlock the door. If you’re tired of reminding children to turn off the bathroom lights, zap them off using your chair side remote. If you wish to turn lights on or off or dim them from your bedroom, hit you bedside remote. You can control a single device, like dimming a bedroom light, or an entire lighting system. Lighting is commonly automated. Initially, automation wiring let people turn lights on in different rooms at varied times for security. Automation has evolved to include outside security and walkway lights, among other things. Every member of a household can possess their own key chain transmitter providing complete home control, including activation of emergency systems. If someone with a health problem is in the garden, unable to get to the house for assistance, help can be summoned using a key chain transmitter. A button sounds an alarm or transmits a call to the police or emergency medical service. You can control all of the lights and appliances in your home by connecting each to its own transceiver, plugging modules into standard receptacles, or replacing switches and receptacles with one that are automated. Such equipment can be controlled by a computer or timing device; or activated by a heat, motion, passive infrared (light), or ultrasonic (sound) sensor.

Heating, Ventilating, and Air Conditioning
Energy management ahs become a major element in home automation. Heating, ventilation, and air conditioning (HVAC) systems are easily programmed into a household computer system. With a click of a mouse, you can independently control the temperature in each room or zone in your house, resulting in significant energy and cost savings. You can program different temperatures for night and day and even have a temperature setting for when you go on vacation. Zone controls allow a homeowner to compensate for variable conditions in spaces exposed to different degrees of heat gain or loss. For example, conditions in a south facing room with lots of glass will be significantly different form those in a north facing room having a fireplace. If computers aren’t your thing, you may decide to use another type of system, such as direct wired X-10 signals or thermostats that work by sensing changes in outdoor temperatures. Such communicating thermostats may have multiple indoor, outdoor, and wet locations sensors. Ports, known as contact closures, allow you to remotely select temperature and time settings. Other HVAC systems that lend themselves to automated controls include air circulation devices like ventilation and exhaust fans, duct dampers, and motorized drapes, shades, doors, windows, and skylights. The possibilities are limitless.

Plumbing
Both water and natural gas plumbing systems can be automated for user convenience and safety. Gas shutoff valves can now be electronically controlled to turn of when a fire is detected or at predetermined times. Likewise, water pipes can be turned off in an emergency or sprinkler systems set to start using a remote controller. Photoelectric sensors can even be used to automatically turn your water faucets on and off or to flush your toilet as you step away. Other possibilities include water softeners, pools, spas, clothes washers, clothes dryers, and water heaters all of which can be tied into sensors, timers, and or security systems. These systems usually have manual override or battery backup in case of power outages or malfunctions.

Home Security
Probably the most important aspect of home automation is its imipact on home security the enhanced intruders; to warn of smoke, fire, and carbon monoxide gases; to signal for emergency assistance. Home automation systems take self contained components and tie them into a single, centrally controlled network for comprehensive protection. Such a network may consist of perimeter alarms, lights, detection sensors, communications devices, and system controllers. Good perimeter lighting, for example, is a known deterrent to prowlers. Motion detectors can warn of someone’s presence on you properly before a reaching your home. Gateways can be remotely controlled and monitored by closed circuit television. Windows and doors may be fitted with alarms that detect the sound of broken glass. You can install magnetic switches that sense the opening of a window or door, or screens that sound an alarm when being cut. In the home, many types of detectors can be used to warn of smoke, fire, heat, or gas. These devices may all be circuited to sound an alarm in the home while simultaneously signaling an emergency service miles away. Your entire home security system can be connected by an automatic telephone dialing system that sends a prerecorded message directly to security monitoring stations, police and fire departments, emergency medical services, or to anyone you wish.

Entertainment System
Another popular use for indoor automation is control of a home theater or entertainment center. Technological advances constantly bring new products onto the market, such as high fidelity videocassette recorders (VCRs), laserdisc players, digital versatile disc (DVD) players, digital satellite systems (DSS), and interactive television. Add these to conventional devices like television sets, telephones, stereo receivers, videotape recorders, video game players, and countless other electronic gadgets and you have a recipe for a tangled web of wiring in you home. These system, however, using home automation. Controllers can be programmed to command sound, vibration, power switches, and communications between devices. You can, for example, install a device to remotely control a home entertainment center. You can program a system to turn on or off when you dial your telephone by letting it ring a set number of times. Or you may set the volume to automatically lower when the phone rings and resume when it is hung up. Automation controls can be programmed to operate everything from lighting levels to curtain closers, channel switching to equipment selection all at the push of a button. Such custom programs are called macros.

Telecommunications and Networking
Science and technology have expanded telecommunications way beyond the simple exchange of voices over telephone wire. Today, telecommunications includes fax transmission, teleconferencing, multiple line phone systems, on line data transmission, message recording and retrieval, and even video exchange. As we have illustrated throughout this chapter, the telephone is itself an important part in many home automation systems, serving as the vehicle for remote signaling and automatic security dialing.

One of the most important aspects of telecommunications today is the ability to network (connect) computer systems, including peripheral equipment and communications devices. This is especially valuable in a world where more and more people are working at home. Being connected to a network allows you to share computer files and equipment with anyone else who also happens to be connected to the same network. These local area networks, or LANs, may be limited to one building or an entire neighborhood. Wide area networks (WANs) may extend over greater distances. Clearly, an automated control system connected to a network could easily be shared over multiple locations.

With the advent of fiber optics, which uses laser generated light to transmit signals through glass fibers, the scope of telecommunications promises to become even greater. In the near future, fiber optic signals will carry vocal, musical, and computer generated sounds; graphic, photographic, and video images; and data transmissions to every household.

Outdoor Systems
Aside form lighting and home security, you can automate your home to meet different outdoor needs. Lawn and garden watering are most commonly automated. A sprinkler system, whether above or in ground, can easily be tied to a timer set to turn the water on or off at a preset time. A controller can be programmed to set, change, or cancel watering times and even to actuate multiple spray zones at different times. Many lesser known uses exist for outdoor automation. A hot tub or pool, for example, can be wired to fill automatically or sense when it is occupied. An occupancy sensor can be connected to an alarm that lets you know if someone, like a playing child, has fallen into the pool. Another use might be a de-icing system on your roof or under your driveway that can be activated remotely or by a temperature sensor. With rapid changes in technology, the choices available to homeowners in the future will be limited by the bounds of their imagination.

X-10 Projects
Lighting Controls
Through home automation projects can vary considerably in cost and difficulty of installation, lighting is an area that is relatively inexpensive and easy to master. It’s a great way to get your feet wet before installing home automation devices throughout your entire home. Handheld remote and computer controlled lighting systems are described in the following how to sequences.

HOW TO:
Install a Remote Controlled Light
Difficult Level:

Tools and Materials

• X-10 transceiver appliance module
• X-10 plug in lamp module
• X-10 universal remote
• X-10 wall switch or dimming module (optional)

Install the Lamp Module. Plug the lamp module into the receptacle adjacent to the light you want to control. For example, use a living room table lamp visible form outside your house. Then plug the light into the lamp module.

Install the Transceiver. Plug the transceiver appliance module into a standard electrical receptacle near where you want to control the light. For example, place the module near your favorite armchair or by your bedside. Extend the antenna on the module. (As an alternative to installing a transceiver, you can install an X-10 wall switch or dimming module at an appropriate location in your house, either newly wired for this purpose or in place of existing switch.)

Set the Codes, and Test the Remote. Following the manufacturer’s recommendations, set the unit codes so that they will not interfere with each other. Adjust the dial on the transmitter and receiver module to the same house code. For example, set the dials to house code A and unit code 1. If you have additional X-10 units controlling other devices, set them to the same house code but different unit numbers. Any receiver that has the same house and unit number will be controlled by a transmitter sending that house and unit code. Once you have set the codes, point the universal remote at the transceiver, and press the appropriate control button to test the system.

HOW TO:
Install a Computer Controlled Light

Difficulty Level:
Tools and Materials

• X-10 transceiver appliance module
• X-10 plug-in lamp module
• Computer interface module
• X-10 universal remote
• X-10 wall switch or dimming module (optional)
• Serial cable
• Automation software

Install the Computer Interface. Install the remote controlled system just as described previously. Next, plug the computer interface module into a receptacle adjacent to your computer. Then plug the serial cable from the computer interface module into the serial bus interface bus on your computer.

Install the Software, and Program the System. Install the control software, and program the system settings, following the manufacturer’s instructions. Once done, you will be able to control the system using your preset computer program, by clicking your mouse on an icon, or simply by pressing a button on your keyboard.

Sprinkler System
An automated sprinkler system is a great convenience. You can control one or several sprinkler zones at preset times and adjust water pressure levels for each zone, according to terrain and microclimate characteristics all without the worry of remembering to turn the system off before going to bed. A moisture sensor can even be included to override the system setting on rainy days. Such a system can also be tied into weather monitoring instruments to automatically adjust for wind, humidity, and other weather conditions.

HOW TO: Install a Sprinkler Controller
Difficulty Level:

Tools and Materials

• Automatic irrigation (sprinkler) controller
• 9-volt alkaline battery
• Insulated screwdrivers
• Multipurpose tool
• Long-nose pliers
• Watertight wire connectors
• No. 10 x 1 ¼” screws or masonry screws
• 18-GA, color-coed, multi-strand, direct burial cable (14 GA for runs over 800’)
• Pigtail connectors

Locate and Mount the Controller. Locate your sprinkler control indoors adjacent to a standard 120-volt AC receptacle. (If yours is a 50 hertz unit, it will require a 240-volt receptacle.) The area should be fully shielded against intense sunlight, dampness, and temperatures less than 32 degrees or greater than 120 degrees Fahrenheit. Do not install the unit on a receptacle serving any high voltage equipment or appliances such as garage door openers and clothes dryers. Also, do not use a receptacle controlled by an on-off switch. Most controllers can be mounted vertically or horizontally. Mount the timer using two No. 10 x 1 ¼ inch screws or masonry screws. Leave the screws extended from the wall 1/8 to ¼ inch, and place the key holes on the back of the unit over the screws, and tighten them. Do not plug in the transformer before you wire the unit.

Install the Battery Backup. Connect a non-rechargeable nine-volt alkaline battery terminal in the controller unit, and snap it into position. The battery will back up memory and preserve your schedule settings for up to six hours if there is a power outage. The sprinkler system will not activate, however, until full power is resumed. If the battery fails, you will lose your programming, but most system will automatically default to a daily watering pattern of ten minutes per valve station, within hours of power resumption, while waiting reprogramming. Replace the battery backup at least once a year, but be careful not to disconnect the transformer when doing so or you will lose your program settings.

Prepare the Wire. To wire sprinkler valves, use 18 gauge color coded, multi-strand direct burial cable for runs under 800 feet in length and 14 gauge for runs exceeding 800 feet. In either case, be certain that the cable you use has one more strand than the number of valves to be wired. (The extra strand is a common wire.) For example, if you are wiring eight valves, use nine-strand cable. If there are extra wires, you can tape these off for possible future use. Remember that all wiring below ground must have watertight connections and be approved for direct burial. Be sure to check local code requirements before doing any wiring.

Wire the sprinkler valves. Open the access panel on the sprinkler controller. Depending on the model, you will see four, six, or eight numbered station terminals for valve wires and one COM terminal for a common wire. If your model can accommodate a master valve, another terminal is marked MV. The common wire is usually the white neutral strand in the multi-strand cable. The other strands are hot and are used to wire the sprinkler valves. Connect each hot valve wire to a station terminals in the controller panel valve 1 terminal 1, valve 2 to terminal 2, and so on. Be sure that you wire only one valve to each terminal and that all contacts are secure. To prevent corrosion, use watertight wire connectors. Next, splice together the common valve wires, and pigtail them to the COM terminal in the controller panel. For sprinkler controllers that must accommodate a master valve or pump starter, connect the color-coded wire from the valve or pump to the terminal marked MV and pigtail the common wire to the COM terminal along with the other common wires. To prevent pump damage, use a jumper wire to connect an unused terminal to one that is active.  

Connect the Transformer. Turn the controller dial to the RAIN/ OFF position. This position allows the system to be turned off without losing the programmed schedule settings. Do not plug in the transformer yet. Attach the pigtail connector at the end of the transformer wire to the 24-volt AC terminal in the controller panel. The display window should read OFF. If not, recheck the battery. Check all the wiring connections, and plug the transformer into the receptacle located near the box. Then turn the dial to the AUTO/RUN position. (If you install a system having more than one controller, each must be connected to its own transformer.) Replace the panel cover on the controller box. Following the manufacturer’s instructions, select a preset watering schedule or program one of your own.

Optional Power-Line Interface. You may opt to add a two-way power line interface to your system to convert X-10 signals from the sprinkler controller onto the power line or relay X-10 transmissions on the line to the device. If there is one provided for this purpose, this device plugs into a jack in the automatic-sprinkler controller panel, using a standard RJ11 telephone connector and cable. This allows you to operate the system remotely.

Voice-Dial Home Security system
A simple voice dial home security system will automatically dial up to four preprogrammed emergency numbers and transmit a digital recording over the connected lines when it is triggered by a connected device like a motion sensor or magnetic door switch. Once activated, it will send commands to flash lights on and off and sound power horns (sirens).

HOW TO: Install a Voice Dial Home Security System
Difficulty Level:
Tools and Materials

• Master control panel console
• Master remote
• Lamp modules
• Insulated screwdrivers
• Plastic anchors
• Multipurpose tool
• RJ11 telephone connector
• Magnetic switch sensors
• Motion sensors
• Key-chain remote
• Power horns (sirens)
• Mounting bracket and screws
• Cat 5 low-voltage wire
• Alkaline batteries, as required

Mount the master control. Your master security control console should be mounted in a central location in your house near a modular phone jack and a standard AC receptacle. The console may sit freely on a flat surface or be mounted on a wall. To mount the console on a wall, use the mounting screws and bracket provided by the manufacturer. If necessary, use plastic anchors to secure the screws to the drywall. Leave the screws extended from the wall 1/8 to ¼ inch, place the keyholes on the back of the unit over the screws, and tighten the screws. Remove the cover on the battery, and replace the cover. Plug the cord on the console into the receptacle and the Rj11 telephone connector into the phone jack. Connect the system to its own phone line for added security.

Set the Master and Key-Chain Remote. Turn the code dial on the master security remote control to the same house code as the master console. Install the batteries in the battery compartment, and switch the console to the INSTALL setting. Press the ARM button to activate the master remote; then switch the console to the RUN setting. If the master remote does not register at the master console, press the code button to set a new random code, and rearm the system. Install batteries in the key-chain remote, and arm it as you did for the master remote. Test both remotes.

Mount the Door and Window Sensors. Locate magnetic switch sensors so that radio frequency (RF) signals will not be blocked by large metal objects or appliances. The signals should pass through as few walls as possible. Using the mounting screws provided, place sensors as near as possible to the top of the door or window. Where possible, mask the sensors behind curtains or drapes. Be sure the arrows on each half of a magnetic switch point to each other and release cleanly when the door or window is in operation. Most systems have settings that allow the alarms to trigger immediately for windows or after the alarms to trigger immediately for windows or after a preset entry delay period for doors. Place the required batteries in the battery compartment of each sensor, and adjust the delays. Following the manufacturer’s instructions, program (register) the devices at the console and test the system.

Mount the Motion Sensors. Mount you motion sensors between 5 and 6 feet above the finished floor, using the mounting brackets and screws provided by the manufacturer. Motion sensors are designed to automatically look downward and need not be pointed at a downward angle. As with the door and window sensors, install the required batteries, set the triggering delays, program the console, and test the detectors.

Install the Lamp Modules. To control a security light, turn the house and unit code dials on a lamp module to match the settings you programmed into the master console. This ensures that you will be able to operate the light using your remote controls. Plug the lamp module into a receptacle near the lamp you wish to control; then plug the lamp into the module. Be sure that the receptacle you use is not switch operated so it cannot be inadvertently switched off. To install modules for other lamps, set the house code dial on each to the same setting as your master console, but set the unit code dials to any unused code that can be controlled by the remote. Plug the lamps into their corresponding modules. Again, be sure to use un-switched receptacles.

Install the Power Horns (Sirens). Set the house code dial on each power horn to the same code setting as the master console. Set each unit dial to an unused code. Then plug the power horns into un-switched receptacles. To test a horn, press the ON button on the master console or remote that matches the house and unit code on the horn. The siren should sound for a preset period of time or until it is disarmed. To manually sound the siren, press the panic button.

Set Up the Dialer. Following the manufacturer’s suggestions, program the master console to dial a friend, neighbor, or relative who can help in an emergency. This person can then dial an emergency service if one is needed. To minimize false alarms, it is not recommended that you program your system to direct dial an emergency service. (You can upgrade your security system, if you want, to one that is remotely tracked by a monitoring service.) Record a brief message in your master console, and play it back to hear what is will sound like to someone listening over a telephone line.

Once you have mastered installing a few X-10 projects like those above, you will have the confidence and skills required to set up an entire automated home living system. Simply add components in any configuration you desire to custom design the system of your dreams.

Home Networking
In the past, the term home networking meant different things to different people. To many, it was a way to link two or more computers together to share files, e-mail, internet access, and other equipment, such as printers. To others, the term described how video and sound could be piped throughout the house.

Today, home networking is called structured cabling, and it includes all of the above and more. Each system is different and depends on the needs of the user. Some want structured cabling in every room of the house. That’s a good choice for new construction, but most of those systems are installed by trained professionals. For retrofit applications, it may make more sense to wire selected rooms.

Structured Cabling
Structured cabling provides efficiency and organization to the communications lines in your home. Every system is different and depends on the layout of the house and the needs of the people who live there.

The best way to understand structured cabling is to compare it to your home’s electrical system. The local electric utility provides electricity to your home’s fuse or panel box. From there it is distributed to the receptacles through individual circuits. Much the same happens in a structured cabling system. The providers, which in this case could be the cable and phone company, provide service to a central hub in your home. Form there it is distributed throughout the house.

The Major Differences. Unlike line voltage wiring, which consist of receptacles wired in sequence, structured cabling uses a home run or star topology wiring layout. Each outlet, whether it be for voice, data, a computer network, video, or combinations of services, is normally connected directly to the main junction or distribution box.

Unlike your panel box or fuse box, which handles only line-voltage electricity, a structured cabling distribution panel serves as the hub for a variety of home services. It contains modules from all of the above services, creating a true home network.

Making Connections
Structured cabling systems rely on two types of cable. Unshielded twisted pair cable (UTP) consists of four pairs of twisted wires. Coaxial cables carry video and data signals.

Plugs and Connectors. In most cases, you will be pulling home network cable using the same techniques used for pulling electrical cable, although there are differences. But unlike electrical wiring, where the installer attaches wires to terminal screws, installers make connections by attaching modular plugs to the end of the cable. You will use RJ45 plugs for Category 5 cable. These look like standard phone plugs, but they are larger. You will use F-connectors for coaxial cable. To make these connections correctly, you will need special tools.

HOW TO: Attach a plug to Category 5 Cable
Difficulty Level:
Tools and Materials

• Wire stripper
• Category 5 or 5e cable
• RJ45 crimp tool
• Modular plugs

Strip the Wires. Use wire strippers to remove about ¾ to 1 inch of casing from the cable. The cable contains four pair of wires; each pair is twisted together. Note how each individual wire has a distinctive color or color banding to distinguish it from the others. Fan out the wires so that each conductor is separate.

Insert the individual wires into the RJ45 plug as specified by the chart that comes with the plug. The insulation on the cable should be inside the plug.

Use the Crimping Tool. Place the plug in the crimping tool. Some tools are able to crimp RJ45 plugs and smaller plugs used on phone lines, so make sure you insert the plug in the correct space. Pull the handles of the tool together to crimp the plug to the cable.

HOW TO: Attach an F-Connector Coaxial Cable
Difficulty Level:
Tools and Materials

• Coaxial cable cutter and stripper
• Crimping tool
• Utility knife (optional)
• F-connectors
• Coaxial cable

Strip the Cable. Working with coaxial cable is different from working with other types of cable. The goal is to have the single conductor protruding from the center of the threaded metal collar.

Use the cable stripper to remove the outer casing and expose the metal foil and center conductor. If you are using a knife, cut through the outer insulation only. Then push back the wire casing carefully, leaving about ¼ inch of foil and 3/8 inch of conductor exposed.

Crimp the F-Connector. Place the connector over the end of the cable. The center conductor should protrude about 1/16 inch beyond the end of the connector. Use a crimping tool to secure the connector.

HOW TO: Install Cabling Outlets
Difficulty Level:
Tools and Materials

• Drywall saw
• Screwdrivers
• Punch-down tool
• Crimping tool
• Hollow-back boxes
• UTP cable
• Coaxial cable
• Wall plates
• Terminal jacks & caps as needed

Structured Cabling Outlets
You will need to run cable, either Category 5 or coaxial or both, from the structured media center to the different rooms in your house.

Assess Your Needs. Plan your installation carefully. It may pay to simply run Category 5 cable and coaxial cable from the media panel to every room in the house. Structured cabling can accommodate phone lines for voice, fax, and computer networking. The structured cabling outlets connect your equipment with the structured media panel. An outlet can contain multiple connections. For example, a single outlet may have connections for phone service, a computer network, and video.

Install the Box. Hollow back boxes have open spaces at the rear of the box, so it is easy to pull a number of cables into the same box. If you’re working on a finished wall, use a drywall saw to cut an opening for the box.

Make Connections. When installing UTP cable, remove the cable casing and fan out the wires. The current technology recommends installing Category 5 or Category 5e UTP, but in some cases Category 3 cables are acceptable. Attach the cable wires to the terminal with a punch-down tool. The terminal is color coded, so you will know where each wire should be placed. The punch-down tool makes the connection between the wire and the lead on the terminal.

Attach the Terminal Jack to the Wall Plate. The products available to you may be different. This connected terminal jack simply snaps into the wall plate.

If you’re making a coaxial cable connection, attach the metal color to the end of the cable using a cable crimper. Then attach the F-connector to a wall jack connector designed for the purpose.

Attach the Wall Plate. Secure the plate to the box with screws. Wall plate designs vary. This plate can accommodate two connections. For illustration purposes, we made one connection. The bottom space is filled with a plug, which you can remove to make an addition connection later.

HOW TO: Install a Structured Media Center
Difficulty Level:
Tools and Materials

• Cable stripper
• Cable crimper
• Coaxial cable crimper
• Structured media panel box
• Power drill driver
• Screws
• Punch down tool
• Distribution modules

Structured Media Center
The structured media center or main distribution panel is the nerve center of the home network. It serves as the distribution point for the system.

Types of Modules. Modules are the working parts of the media center. They come in dozens of configurations. For example, the center shown here contains one preassembled module that has the ability to route up to four phone lines to six different locations throughout the house. There is also a security system hookup and a video splitter that can route a cable feed to up to six locations.

Install the Box. Panel boxes are designed for either recessed mounting or surface mounting. Attach the box with screws provided.

Install the Modules. Boxes have a pegboard type configuration, so you can simply snap a module into place. This installation is relatively simple because there is only one module with which to deal. But installing multiple modules will take some planning.

Bringing Cable into the Box. Label cables as you run them form the box to their destination. You will need to know where each cable will end up in order to make the correct connections in the distribution panel.

In this panel, the outside phone line is connected to the top of the panel (gray wire coming from the top of the box). This energizes the right side of the module, which is broken down into carious combinations of phone lines. For example, one connection may be able to handle all four lines, but another may only handle two of the lines. This enables you to distribute service throughout your house as you wish.

The six slots on the left route the service to up to six locations throughout the house. Attach the cables from the rooms to the plugs on this side of the module.

Connect Patch Cords. This module comes with short patch cords for connecting the phone line side of the module with the distribution side that leads to the various rooms in the house. This allows you the flexibility to configure the system that best suits your needs.

Click below for more options:

Home Network Wiring

Home Theatre Installation

Security

Phone Add-ons and Upgrades

Multi-media Outlets